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The
World Heritage Site of Bagan is the wonder of
wonders in this 'Golden Land' of wonders. Scattered
across a vast arid plain stand over 3,000 extant
monuments that proclaim the piety and power of
Myanmar's first empire.
As a former center of Buddhist spirituality and
learning, Bagan ranks amongst the great sites
of India and Tibet. As a manifestation of a dynamic
and original form of architecture, Bagan stands
alongside the other great Buddhist centers of
South-East Asia, such as Angkor in Cambodia or
Borobudur in Java.
Some of these monuments, such as the Dhammayangyi,
are colossal brick pyramids; others, like the
Thatbyinnyu or Gawdawpalin soar up over 50m high
with resplendent spires. There are small temples
with rich schemes of wall painting and others
with outstanding cycles of sculpture.
There
were originally 10,000 temples at Bagan, mainly
constructed of brick between the 11th and 13th
centuries. In these three centuries Myanmar was
first unified as single political entity under
the kings of Bagan. Little remains of the original
palace and domestic architecture, for the people
of Bagan glorified their faith not themselves.
These many monuments are to the Buddha alone.
Framed on two sides by the great Ayeyarwady, the
site covers an area of approximately 25 miles.
The main concentration of monuments is around
the old city site on the bend of the river. Yet
in the outer areas of Minnanthu and Thiripyitsaya
are rich concentrations of lesser known but superbly
crafted works. At Bagan no two monuments are the
same. All are highly original in design and conception.
The structural techniques, similar to the gothic
forms of Western cathedral architecture, were
in advance of contemporary engineering in Europe.
Technologically daring in concept and exquisite
in execution, the temples of Bagan are of overpowering
beauty
To
gain a true impression of the site, some form
of transportation is essential. Traditionally
travelers have used the local horse carts and
many of their drivers have an excellent knowledge
of the monuments and their history. Locally hired
bicycles are also available and metalled roads
have now been constructed connecting the main
centers of population.
The villages of New Bagan and Myinkabar are centers
of traditional lacquer manufacture, which is both
robust and attractive and makes the best possible
souvenir of Myanmar. In the local town of Nyaung
U, to the west of the site, there is a large local
market which is a lively and colorful place to
study local life and customs.
short drive into the countryside near Bagan, Mount
Popa makes a fascinating day trip. Home to Myanmar's
"nats" (spirits), it is an intriguing
place.
Bagan
cannot fail to move. Ask any visitor who has watched
the sun rise or sun set across these fields of
glowing terra-cotta brick temples. This is the
spiritual heart of Myanmar where the young Myanmar
nation, first unified under one king and one faith,
came to express its creative genius. The temples
now are empty. The great communities of chanting
monks and learned scholars disbanded with the
anarchy that followed the Mongol invasion of 1278.
Gone are the reverberating gongs and tinkling
temple bells; alms processions and sumptuous ceremonies.
In place is a calmness and peace. And a vision
of what man when moved by philosophy is capable
of.
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